Photo by Eric Francis / Book of Blue
I was searching my Paris files, just in by Fed Ex from Belgium, for street photos of Parisian women. I didn’t find any of those today, but (along with several missing Book of Blue sessions from England, praise the gods) I did find these two images from 2005 that convey the energy and scale of the city, particularly the part where I lived, the Left Bank. Both of these photos are in the 5th Arrond. I knew it was a past life thing, but I could barely stand to cross the Seine to the Right Bank, where you find things like the Marais and the Hotel de Ville (city hall, not a Marriott). It just felt strange there, and I later discovered that some of the places I liked the least had been the home of a mass grave with more than 7 million sets of human remains (now Les Halles; the bones, about 16 centuries worth, were stashed down in the catacombs circa 1750). I had one haunt on the Right Bank, the artist squat at 59 rue du Rivoli, one of the first places I hung out with Danielle Voirin. In the image above, the Seine is to the right side of the photo — toward the north. The street along the river changes names about every 100 feet and nobody knows what it’s actually called. The image below, taken a few minutes earlier or later, is a common scene you see night after night, dinner cruise boats going by. Notice how high the river wall is behind the boat. Difficult though it is to believe, there have been rare times when the city has actually flooded. The cafe downstairs from my apartment had a nice collection of photos of people being rescued on the city streets in canoes.
Photo by Eric Francis / Book of Blue
Starrynight wrote :: I wouldn’t have realized how big Paris is if I hadn’t seen it for myself.
That’s really weird. I found it to be *tiny* – much more walkable than I thought it would be. We could walk from Pere LaChaise (I know, hideous spelling) to Notre Dame (Ile de Cite) in an hour.
Mexico City is modelled on Paris, and is five times the size, so I was expecting that ginormous urban spread.
It was such a relief to be able to hold the city in a single embrace.
I love these photos. They are fantastic.
BTW, the first place settled in Paris was Rive Gauche (i.e., the Left Bank of the Seine); and after that, Ile de la Cite, an island along the Seine that was the first Celtic settlement, after which the city was named. We’re talking a long time ago. There are also the ruins of a prior Roman city all over the that area, too, it’s really quite amazing to imagine this city imposed in the background of modern Paris. The city plan is clear; many structures are intact and basically sit in the middle of the current town. Some are fenced off and some are open to the public (a coliseum, for example.) Then under the plaza outside Notre Dame cathedral…there was a massive archeological excavation. There’s another layer to the city down there…another place and time, though contemporary with the old Roman structures that surround it. This excavation was done during the 1960s. The public entered through a stairway at the far end of the plaza; for three euros you were in, wandering an ancient neighborhood in an old Roman city; though at the approximate level of the basements. There are many details, including fancy hypocaust heating systems that provide radiant heat out of the walls and the floors. At the back of that exhibit were ancient quays believed to be the first ever along the Seine.
Hi Eric,
I returned yesterday from my first trip to Paris. I wouldn’t have realized how big Paris is if I hadn’t seen it for myself.
I stayed at 40 rue de Rivoli….. it was an amazing time. After getting used to the shock and overwhelming feeling of all of the history and incredible art ( the buidlings themselves are magnificent pieces of work) I quickly could see and feel how accepting the people are of all lifestyles and the expressiveness that was easily generated and enjoyed. I could have people watched for a long time.
When you speak of the “Right Side” that is the opposite side of the Seine of rue de Rivoli, yes? On my walk from rue de Rivoli and crossing the Seine heading towards the Latin Quarter there was an uneasiness. Once reaching St. Germaine des Pres the feeling lifted. Not exactly sure where the catacombs are…. but I do remember a photo you took of a woman laying on top of the bones….. that is a great photo…. I loved that one.